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The Whelping Process (birth)
The actual whelping is a natural process which often proceeds trouble-free. When a problem does crop up, however, the owner of the bitch should be able to recognise it and know when to help, or to call for help.This article is not meant to be a scientific discussion, but rather outlines guidelines for the layman.
The bitch should be settled comfortably in her whelping box at least 2 weeks before the actual birth. The whelping box is an essential piece of equipment. It is usually made of wood, and large enough for the bitch to lie stretched out comfortably in any direction. The sides should be high enough to provide privacy and security to the bitch, but low enough for the owner to stoop over and reach inside comfortably.
There should be a hinged flap which can be lowered for the bitch to jump in and out of the box, but fastened to ensure the pups’ safety later on when they start to move around more.
The most important part of the whelping box are the so-called "pig-rails." These are about 7-10 cm wide and placed about 15-20cm from the bottom, right round the inside of the box. These provide a safe haven for the pups to creep under, to ensure the mother does not accidentally lie on them and smother them at night. It should be lined with plenty of newspaper to absorb any fluids, and the paper should be changed twice daily at least.
A clean whelping blanket (synthetic sheepskin pad) will ensure all fluids will filter through to be absorbed by the newspaper underneath, keeping bitch and pups dry and comfortable.For the two weeks preceding the actual birth, the bitch will be comfortable with her usual bedding placed inside the whelping box. This will help her to adjust to the new sleeping arrangements. I think it is unfair to expect a bitch who normally sleeps inside, to suddenly now sleep outside. A litter shouldn’t be brought up outside in any case, too much can go wrong.
The gestation period (pregnancy) lasts about 63 days (9 weeks), although 61 days is not unusual .
When the bitch is getting ready to whelp, she will display any or all of certain very distinctive behaviour patterns. She might become quieter or more active, scratch around in the garden preparing a "den" and start to refuse food. These are all signs that she is entering the first stage of labour.
The most distinctive sign, however, is that her temperature will drop lower than normal. Normal temperature for a Canine is 38,8 EC and although her temperature might fluctuate between 37,8 - 38,8 EC for the last 10 days or so, when she enters actual labour her temperature will drop to below 37,5 EC and even as low as 36,8 EC. The lower temperature will usually be accompanied by heavy panting, as her uterus starts preparing for the actual birth. This stage can last for up to 48 hours, but that is excessive. She will probably refuse all food and drink but offer her some clean water with a little glucose dissolved in it.
It is imperative that the whelping process and birth does not become a side-show. No-one except the attending owner should be present, as this can be very upsetting for the mother, at a time when she feels vulnerable and it is natural for her to want to hide away. Therefore NO visitors and definitely NO children watching!!!The attending owner must watch carefully for the first real contraction which means the start of the final stage of labour. A real contraction is very distinctive, all the muscles of the abdomen bunch together and some rippling of the muscles down the back may be observed. This means the bitch is trying to expel the whelp which has nearly finished its journey down the birth canal. For the first whelp, this final stage may last as long as 90 minutes, but thereafter 20-40 minutes is more common for each succeeding whelp. Anything longer than that may indicate a problem and this is why the owner must be sure of when the first actual contraction started.
The attending veterinarian will want precise information regarding this in case of birthing difficulties. All smothering blankets and bedding must be removed from the whelping box as the time draws near. The whelping box needs a good clean with anti-bacterial and anti-viral cleaning liquids - ask your vet for the name of a product because the residue of some products may be harmful. The box needs a good thick bedding of newspapers and a whelping blanket. The whelping blanket - as explained previously - is a soft, thick, synthetic fur which looks like sheepskin. Birthing fluids (and later urine from the pups) pass through the whelping blanket onto the papers beneath, where they are absorbed and the upper blanket stays warm and dry.
Keep at least two to three spare whelping blankets and lots of spare newspapers to later replace inevitably sodden papers and blanket. Dirty blankets can be machine washed. When the first whelp arrives, a distinct bulge will be noticed just under the anus. Then the outer sack in which the pup is enclosed, will bulge out of the vulva - usually the first birthing waters can now be seen. If the outer sack is broken on the way, waters will be seen earlier, this is no reason for alarm as the whelp is still enclosed in the inner sack and the premature bursting of the outer sack by the strong contractions usually help the pup on it’s way. (However, if there is still no whelp 10-15 minutes after the appearance of the waters, call your vet.) A couple of strong heaves by the mother will usually deliver the pup, with the afterbirth - which can be likened to a piece of "liver" usually following quickly after, still attached by the umbilical cord to the whelp. The mother will lick the whelp vigorously to stimulate breathing, remove the sacks, bite through the umbilical cord and eat the afterbirth. Too many afterbirths sometimes upset her stomach so try and remove one or two later on before she has a chance to eat them. Do allow her to eat a few, however, as the hormones contained therein seem to help stimulate her contractions. A first-time mother might need a little help, she might not be too sure of what is expected of her. This is why the owner must make sure that hands are clean and sterilised, nails are short and clean, because it might be necessary to split open the sack, cut the umbilical cord with a blunt scissor (sharp scissors allows the wound to bleed too much) about 1cm from the body and dispose of the afterbirth into a handy container. I have never been able to tear the slippery cord with my finger-nails as some breeders believe to be the "proper" method, so a pair of sharp scissors are handy.
The whelp must be towelled vigorously with a clean towel (making sure to support the head) to stimulate breathing and expel all birthing fluids from the lungs. The mother will be very interested in the proceedings, although her instinct for cleanliness might necessitate a concentrated cleaning of the whelping box first. Hand the pup gently back to her, put it on the floor close to the side, to enable her to give it a good clean. She should be quite able to take over from there. Don’t panic if it looks as if she’s a little rough with the pup, they normally lick them and roll them quite roughly around, this stimulates breathing and helps to expel the fluids from the lungs. I prefer removing the pups to a suitable basket with a hotwater bottle or electric blanket or pad (be careful not to make this too hot) under another whelping blanket, when subsequent pups appear (do not remove the already born pups too quickly as this will upset the mother - wait until she concentrates on the newborn), to ensure that the pups already born, do not get in the way of the mother’s efforts with the newborn, and to ensure that they do not get repeatedly wet from the birthing fluids. As soon as the mother has the new pup settled, place the other pups back with her, at her teats. They will search for a suitable teat themselves, nosing around until they are able to latch on.
If one is unable to suckle properly and strongly, there might be a problem, for example, a split palate, and the vet will need to advise.It is very important that the whelps do not get cold, the room temperature must be kept constant. They cannot yet regulate their own body temperatures and so can die if they get too cold or too hot.
A resting period of anything from 10 to 90 minutes in between births is normal. If it gets longer than that and you are sure there are more whelps on the way, call the vet because the bitch might be suffering from some form of inertia.
After the birth of the final pup, it is time to clean the whelping box, place clean newspaper layers under a clean whelping blanket and allow the mother to settle with her family. In order to clean the box, you might need to have someone entice her outside. Offer the mother a drink of clean water, maybe with a very little honey in it. This will ensure she has enough calcium to prevent eclampsia (a life threatening condition where the mother does not have enough calcium in her system. She will die unless treated by a veterinarian). Remove the pups from the box, place them in the prepared warmed basket and ask the bitch to go for a run outside. She will not want to go, but will feel much better after relieving herself and will be happy to settle with her new family in the clean whelping box.
There are many things which can go wrong with a birthing and which can result in heartbreak. Pups can die, the mother can die. Everything to do with breeding properly involves a LOT of hard work! Be prepared that the bitch may need an emergency caesarian, this is very costly (especially after-hours which is when most bitches go into labour!) - something to think about before making the decision to have your bitch bred.One more thing I must stress again - the whelping process is NOT an entertaining afternoon for friends and family and NO visitors must be allowed near the bitch. She will feel exposed and vulnerable enough - her owner must be the only person attending the birth. I have known bitches to stop the process because they don't feel safe - possibly with disastrous consequences. This is definitely NOT the time to teach the kids "the facts of life" - buy them a book.
List of necessary requirements and equipment to be ready before the whelping:
Rectal thermometerContainer for general disposal (afterbirths etc)
Anti-bacterial and anti-viral cleaning detergents (for the whelping box)
Whelping box
Blunt-point scissors, sterilised
Lots of clean newspaper
Refuse bag for discarded newspaper
Four synthetic fur whelping blankets
Five clean towels
KY Jelly
Glucose and / or honey
Basket and electric pad with a clean towel to cover with.
Food especially designed for lactating bitches
Suitable heating for the whelping room, especially in winter time.
Telephone for calling the vet!!
Make sure that you have the facilities to dock your puppies as vets will no longer dock puppies